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Bryan'S JOURNAL

October 2005

a beach in Costa Rica
I just returned to San José from my new favorite place in the world, Cahuita! San José is a lively city that never seems to slow down. Yet the fast pace I’ve kept so far is only one facet of life in Costa Rica. The Associated Colleges of the Midwest (ACM) Costa Rica program organizes two-week home stays in rural areas, allowing students to understand that rural, slow-paced culture during our time here. My rural stay was in Cahuita – a town of about 1,500 people in the Talamanca region along the Caribbean coast.

I have had the opportunity to experience Cahuita both as a tourist and a community member. I first went there after a group trip to Guayabo National Monument, a historic indigenous site in Turialba. The trip to Cahuita was full of tedious bus changes, missed buses and a cab ride from Siquirres, Limon, to Cahuita.

As a tourist I enjoyed the night life, beaches, restaurants, and people of Cahuita. I felt an immediate welcome, although not as a tourist, but as a fellow Afro-Caribbean. Residents in Cahuita, as in San José, mistake me for a native Costa Rican of the Talamanca region. I spent most of my time along the touristy main road leading to Cahuita National Park, an incredible beach surrounded by forest with a trail leading through. Preoccupied by the “no worries in the world” smiles of the locals and the beautiful beach, I was oblivious to the region’s tribulations: despite historic struggles for enfranchisement, the government still mistreats and attempts to exploit those living near the coast.

My view of Cahuita changed when I visited again. The ACM placed me with an incredible host family, and I came to understand the people and the region. My perspective has evolved into a more descriptive picture of Cahuita: what it means to its people, and now what it means to me. During my two-week stay in this Caribbean paradise, I was able to learn about Afro-Caribbean culture, the effects of tourism on the region, and racism in Costa Rica.

Home in Cahuita is different than in San José, but there are many similarities in family relations and interactions. There were 11 family members living in my house – compared to five in my San José home. My mother and father, Doña Laura (Mrs. Laura) and Don Marcos (Mr. Marcos), were terrific parents and grandparents. Don Marcos worked near Limon and we watched futbol (soccer), beisbol (baseball), y peliculas (movies) on TV when he returned.

Bryan and the kidsDoña Laura was very active in the community and took care of the two toddlers in our family, Donovan and Tyrone, whenever she wasn’t working, attending a meeting, or involved in a community activity. I enjoyed our conversations about life, experiences, and Negritude. My oldest sister, Marjerie, was a teacher and head of the National Park Management Association. She has two sons, Richard and Donovan, and a daughter, Tsunami. Richard is in second grade and Tsunami is in pre-kindergarten. My sister, Helen, was mayor of Cahuita during my stay, but has recently been elected to a higher position as president of an association. I had a chance to attend a few political meetings relating to affairs in Cahuita with her, and many meetings regarding the presidential elections in Costa Rica this year. She has a daughter in kindergarten, Laura (we called her Laurita), and little Tyrone is her son. My brother Charlie lived with us, too. He loved to go to the beach and tend to our goats. Antonella was my youngest sibling. She is a sophomore in high school and liked to dance and listen to music.

Both houses have front and back yards with various fruit-producing plants. In Cahuita we had several animals, such as goats, chickens, dogs, and cats. We have one dog at my home in San José. The most prized possession in both houses is the television. When not occupied with a task or commitment, everyone makes his or her way to the TV. The radio was also an important possession in my Cahuita home. My mom listened to it every morning and my sisters listened to “raggaetone,” salsa, or whatever else they could find to dance to. My brother had his own personal radio and listened to it all day, unless he was away from the house.

Due to historical factors, most of the Afro-Caribbean population in Costa Rica speak Spanish, English, and broken English. As a result, I was able to cheat a little and converse with my family in English. Our most frequent topics of conversation were politics and current events, racism, economics, traveling, family, and the community. Don Marco is Spanish and Afro-Caribbean. His father and father’s family (all living in San José) have disowned him because of his skin color. Doña Laura is Afro-Costa Rican and Afro-Nicaraguan, and though she is a respected member of the community, there are still people who dislike her because of her Nicaraguan heritage (there is a lot of discrimination toward Nicaraguan immigrants to Costa Rica). Also, the women in my family have had many experiences abroad. All of these factors led to amazing conversation and invaluable learning.

My entire experience in Cahuita has been valuable and I had a hard time leaving when it was time to return to San José. I have grown immensely with this experience. It has reminded me how language can be a barrier that prevents people from understanding and appreciating one another as they would if they could communicate easily. I am further encouraged to work even harder to bring my Spanish to a level at which my ability to connect with others will not be limited.

 

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