Tahiti's Pristine Waves Call to Travelers Around the World

by Jordan Bentley



It is dangerous because the undertow is strong off the coral reef, which creates a massive and steep bowl. On top of that the lip of the wave is as thick as it is high. The intense volume of water passing over an extremely shallow reef allows for a stand-up barreling tube. The wave breaks down fast on the reef, and if a surfer does not pull out of the tube soon enough they will find themselves slammed against the sharp coral. Even if someone survived the jagged coral the undertow is too strong to fight.

A few people have lost their lives attempting to surf Teahupoo, one of them being local surfer Beriece Taerea. Even after hearing of these deaths talented surfers still come to "the end of the road" to size up the wave. In August of 2000 Laird Hamilton successfully surfed Teahupoo when it was swelling at its largest size to date. If Hamilton had made a wrong move he would have definitely lost his life. When asked how he felt after riding the world's largest wave, it is said that all he could do was cry.

Josh, Laurent, Paco, and Andy looked like warriors with streaks of white paste covering their faces and shoulders. What I had mistaken as some kind of traditional custom ended up being heavy duty sun block that stuck to their skin even after hours of being in the salty water. They had left sometime after five-thirty in the morning to go surfing and were now starving for a late breakfast. They made their way to the table and began a feast of table crackers and Nutella. Paco's dimples deepened as he laughed and threw back his head. Andy began to explain one of Paco's rides. Apparently, Paco had done something wrong and somehow escaped getting smashed into the coral reef. They were all speaking French and my limited vocabulary left me to use body language and hand signals to catch the drift of their conversation. I was on the island of Tahiti just meters away from the water.

I too felt my stomach protest its emptiness and sat down to eat a Nutella cracker sandwich. I looked to my right and caught a glimpse of Paco's foot. There was a deep orange slice below his ankle. He held his foot still as the rest of his body shook with laugher and then I realized that he had many of these orange colored cuts on his body; they were on his feet, arms, and back. Taken aback by the one on his lower back, which seemed to be the worst, I asked him what they were. With a thick French accent, he told me that the wave breaks on the reef, and that most of the time he comes back from surfing with a fresh cut. The cuts never fully heal if you keep going out in the water he told me, so he explained how the orange goop along with a thick white paste needed to be put on the wound so he could keep surfing. However, if you keep covering up the slice with goop, then it will not fully heal either. Once I heard this it was hard for me to understand why surfing was so thrilling. Having never attempted to catch a wave myself, I could not see how a painful cut that does not heal, could be ignored by the surfers. I thought such unpleasantness should be avoided at all costs.

There is a different feel to the air around Teahupoo, and it was more than just the humidity. I soon realized that the feeling comes from the attitude of the people. Most of the people living in this little town by the wave are surfers, and spending a couple of weeks amongst a few of them taught me that people often take life too seriously. The surfers in Tahiti especially know how to sit back and enjoy the flow of life. Josh says, "It's a lot of fun. People are healthy and active yet most of the younger crowed is free of responsibilities. At our age [33] it's a bit different because we work and have kids, but it's a great pastime that allows you to connect with the ocean, be with friends and get some good exercise. At another level it's almost like a fraternity or a sorority in that it links you with a group of people all over the world." Josh lives with his family in a bungalow style home just a few moments walk from the wave at Teahupoo, and surfs Teahupoo when he says it is relatively safe: which means when he thinks there is a good chance he will come out of the water alive.

This tightly knit community has been strong for hundreds of years. And even though surfing has been a sport among Polynesians and others, the surf in Tahiti has remained relatively untapped. When asked what it is about surfing Tahiti that is so unique, Josh responds with, "Most breaks are pretty radical and over live reef so you have to be pretty good. It's sort of a newly discovered place as far as mainstream surf publicity is concerned, so it's not crowded. In Hawaii and California it is so crowded and there is so much attitude at the big spots that finding a warm water, friendly, uncrowded break is somewhat of a dream for many. Plus the ambiance of surfing here is like none other. Everyone acknowledges each other, shakes hands, and says hi, etc- that doesn't happen in the States anymore."

Tahiti overall is relatively unspoiled and there are many places to find a secluded surf. Two other waves besides Teahupoo that are reserved for professional surfers only: Maraa and Point Venus. Both are located on the northern island of Tahiti. But there are many waves that are for all levels of surfers, and you can even surf a few that have a beach break rather then a reef break. (This would cut down on the slices made by the jagged coral reef.) Paparaa is known for having a steady strong wave that all surfers can attempt to catch. It is located on the north island and is just about a twenty five minute drive from Papeete-Tahiti's capitol city. Papenoo is a wave for beginners, and is located on the north island as well just beyond Papeete. Another wave is Rocky Point and is for all levels of surfers, as well. It is located just before Papenoo and the locals surf it frequently. According to rumor, tourist surfers have been scared away by over protective locals from some of these places, but if you are open and kind they should not cause you any worry.

After I finish my Nutella sandwich I listen to the waves smash against the reef and the delicate words of a foreign tongue drift away with the wind. I wonder what it feels like to have a surf board stick to your feet to feel the force of a wave pushing you though the water. The four surfers were finished eating, and they began to pick up their boards and inspect them for nicks and scratches. They also looked at their own bodies and compared the slices made by the coral reef as though each scar was an honor.

Why is surfing so addicting? It seems far more hazardous than relaxing. Without having experienced the sensation myself, I went to Josh to gain some clarification. I learned that the sport of surfing is not just about an adrenalin rush is also about clearing your mind and feeling centered. Josh says, "It's what the French call la glisse, which basically means the sensation of sliding on something. The rush you get when you actually catch a wave is incomparable; you get a good adrenaline buzz. Beyond that, most surfers have a sincere love of the ocean and there is nothing nicer than bobbing on a surfboard at sunrise or sunset watching dolphins jump and talking with friends. Of course as much as everyone wants to catch a wave sometimes just being out there can lift spirits." Upon hearing him speak so passionately, I began to understand how Laird Hamilton could be moved to tears, and I looked at the surfer's cuts not as inconveniences, but as trophies showing their many attempts at catching the perfect wave.