Local Bouldering Areas

Hopefully this section will grow as submissions come in. I need pictures! Right now, we have a synopsis of different areas, and a smattering of pictures. For specific route information, you will need to buy the guidebook at Mountain Chalet or poke around the web a bit more.

 

Garden of The Gods:

While the Garden is mostly known for its sport and trad climbing, there is a smattering of good bouldering around.

Directions: Head west on uintah until you hit 31st street. Take a left. All will be clear from there.

a. The Snakepit

The best bouldering in the garden. Solid compact stone with some cool problems.

Directions: Loop around the main road keeping left at the intersections until you are almost back to where you started. Pull off at the last parking area on the left. Hike down paralell to the road until you find a collection of boulders.

b. The Blowouts

Good traversing on large huecos. This area is not huge, but it has some quality problems. To the left is the classic sport climb grapefruit dance (5.12b), its really a boulder problem that starts at 10 feet up.

Directions: Park at the main parking lot and head south west around the huge massif of north gateway rock. Bushwack on a faint trail until you see a large flat area with tons of chalked up holds.

c. Rheinskeller traverse

A very, very long traverse in a shaded, cool area. v5 if you manage the whole thing although no move is harder than v2 or so.

Directions: If you are walking towards red and white twin spires from the east(center of the park and walking trails- they are aptly named), turn left towards a narrow slot- traverse inside of it.

d. Unnamed v8 problem

Above the hill on the main parking lot about 2/3 the way up the hill on the north side. Pulls a 90 degree overhang. Really freekin hard.

Ute Valley:

A cool little place in the middle of a city park in a suburban wasteland. Sandstone (some loose, some compact) bouldering with problems from v0 to v8.

Directions. Go north on I-25 until you hit garden of the gods road. Go for a mile or two until you hit centennial boulevard. Take a right on centennial and then another right at a church (mule deer drive) follow this road for .25 miles to the end of a park and turn left on pinon park drive. Park on the side of the road near the gate and walk up the trail. You will reach the area after 100 meters. The problems are on both side of the the trail.

Cheyenne Canyon:

There are only two small boulders here, but they are nice. Granite.

Take Uinta to 21st street. Take a left. keep going for a long time until you hit cheyenne mountain blvd. (follow signs to seven falls). At the split in the road take a right into the canyon (a left takes you to 7 falls- biggest tourist trap ever). Keep driving down the winding road until you see a prominent boulder one the left. Thats it.

a. Graduation boulder

A large boulder with at least 5 or so good problems.

b. Post graduate boulder

Cross the ceek and scamper directly up. There are some highball problems with bad landings.

Ute Pass:

THIS AREA IS TECHNICALLY CLOSED! No relation with ute valley. I have been threatened with fines or worse by law enforcement. However, this is unequivically the best bouldering in the area- just be warned. Its a wonderland of granite boulders.

Directions: Head up highway 24 until you see a dirt pulloff for waldo canyon (its after manitou)- park there *NOT* in front of the gate unless you want to alert the authorities. Cross the freeway and hop the metal gate. Head up the road. Boulders are on your right.

Sheeps Nose:

A bit of a drive but worth it. A wonderland of granite boulders.

Directions: take 24 to Woodland Park. Take the last right before you leave town. Follow this for 10-15 minutes through the odd looking experimental forest. Take a left on a dirt road to the left as the road goes downhill and to the right. This is about 5 minutes after you get to the burned area. Take a left at the T and then the next right. Follow the dirt road for 5 minutes or so until you see a wash with a barbed wire fence across it that reads "no motor vehicles". Hike up the wash untill you see a trail leading up the hillside. The T-Rex rock (it looks like a T-Rex head) marks the start of the bouldering.